🦎 General Info


The Green Iguana (Iguana iguana) is a large, arboreal lizard native to Central and South America, as well as parts of the Caribbean. Despite their name, these reptiles can display a range of colors including bright green, blue, orange, or even reddish hues, depending on locality, age, and mood.


Green Iguanas are intelligent, curious, and highly active, but also demanding reptiles that require extensive space and specialized care. They can become quite tame with regular, gentle interaction but are best suited for experienced reptile keepers due to their large adult size and specific environmental needs.


Adult males can reach 5–7 feet in length, including their long tail, and weigh 10–15 pounds or more. With excellent husbandry, these majestic reptiles can live 15–25 years in captivity.


Enclosure


  • Size: Green Iguanas grow rapidly and need an enclosure large enough to allow climbing, basking, and roaming. Enclosure must provide vertical and horizontal space — iguanas are excellent climbers and require height and ground space.


  • Juveniles (under 2 years): Minimum 4 ft L x 2 ft W x 3 ft H

  • Adults: Minimum 8 ft L x 6 ft W x 6 ft H — larger is always better.

  • Material:

  • PVC or melamine enclosures retain humidity and heat well.

  • Custom-built enclosures or converted indoor rooms are often necessary for adults.

  • Provide ample ventilation and secure locking doors — iguanas are strong and can push open weak latches.

  • Décor: Provide large, sturdy branches and shelves for climbing and basking, Add shaded areas to make them feel secure using Live or artificial plants. Those plants can also help maintain humidity and offer a naturalistic environment. Include a large water bowl big enough for them to soak their body in when they want too.

Temperature & Lighting


  • Basking Spot: 95–100°F


  • Ambient Temperature (Day): 85–90°F


  • Cool Side: 75–80°F


  • Night Temperature: 70–75°F - anything below 70° can be dangerous for your iguana, causing them to become unconscious, and even become fatal.

  • Heating: Use ceramic heat emitters, halogen bulbs, or basking lamps to create a gradient, giving them options to regulate their own temperature.

  • Lighting & UVB: Green Iguanas require high-intensity UVB lighting for calcium absorption and metabolic health. Use a T5 HO 10.0 UVB tube (or Arcadia 12%) spanning at least 2/3 of the enclosure’s length. Replace bulbs every 6–12 months, depending on brand and manufacturer guidelines.

  • Day/Night Cycle: Provide 12–14 hours of light daily using a timer for consistency.


Humidity & Water


  • Humidity: 65–80% Green Iguanas originate from tropical regions and require consistent humidity for shedding and respiratory health.


  • Methods to Maintain Humidity:

  • Mist the enclosure 2–3 times daily manually or use an automatic misting/fogging system.

  • Use live plants and moist substrates (like cypress mulch or coconut fiber).

  • Add a large water tub to increase ambient moisture.

  • Water:

  • Provide fresh, clean water daily for drinking and soaking, many iguanas will defecate in water so its important that you constantly provide a source of clean water.

  • Tip: Humidity that is too low can lead to dehydration and shedding issues, while overly damp, stagnant air can cause bacterial growth — balance is key.


Substrate


  • Options:

  • Coconut fiber, cypress mulch, or soil mix (for humidity retention).

  • Reptile-safe artificial turf or newspaper for easy cleaning.

  • Avoid: Sand, bark chips, or gravel — these can cause impaction if ingested.

  • Depth: 1–2 inches is sufficient if using loose substrate; spot clean daily and fully replace as needed.


Diet


  • Type: Strictly herbivorous


  • Staple Greens:

  • Collard greens

  • Mustard greens

  • Turnip greens

  • Dandelion greens

  • Endive

  • Vegetables:

  • Squash (butternut, yellow, zucchini)

  • Green beans

  • Bell peppers

  • Carrots (occasionally)

  • Fruits (treats only):

  • Mango

  • Papaya

  • Strawberries

  • Blueberries

  • Melon

  • Avoid: Spinach, iceberg lettuce and cabbage as it doesn't have enough nutrition for your iguana, this can lead to long term health issues down the road.


  • Feeding Schedule:

  • Juveniles: Fresh food daily, offered in the morning.

  • Adults: Daily or every other day with constant access to clean water.

  • Supplements:

  • Calcium: 3–4 times per week.

  • Calcium with D3: Once weekly especially if being kept indoors.

  • Multivitamin: Once weekly.

  • Tip: Chop food finely for juveniles and offer a variety of textures and colors to encourage eating.


Behavior & Handling


  • Temperament: Green Iguanas are intelligent but territorial reptiles. Males especially can become aggressive during breeding season. However, with patience and regular gentle interaction, they can learn to tolerate and even enjoy human presence.


  • Handling:

  • Always approach slowly from the side, not above.

  • Support their entire body and tail during handling.

  • Avoid grabbing or restraining forcefully — stress can cause tail whipping or biting.

  • Juveniles are often defensive but usually calm with consistent care and positive interaction.

  • Enrichment:

  • Allow supervised time outside the enclosure (in a safe, warm environment).

  • Offer branches, climbing structures, and visual stimulation inside the enclosure.

  • Rearrange décor occasionally to keep them mentally stimulated.

  • Caution: Never house two males together as they will become very territorial and fight, but always use caution when housing 2 adults together males, or females or any combo of the two as they can still fight and become territorial.


Health & Lifespan


  • Lifespan: 15–25 years with proper care (some exceeding 30 years)


  • Common Health Issues:

  • Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD): Caused by lack of UVB or calcium,

  • Dehydration & Poor Shedding: From low humidity.

  • Mouth Rot (Stomatitis): Bacterial infection from injuries or poor hygiene.

  • Kidney Failure: Caused by improper diet, one of the most common reasons next to MBD that people lose their iguana's.

  • Thermal Burns: From direct contact with hot lamps.

  • Prevention:

  • Provide strong UVB and calcium supplementation.

  • Maintain consistent humidity and temperatures.

  • Keep the enclosure clean and ensure proper diet balance.

  • Signs of Illness:

  • Lethargy

  • Weight loss

  • Swollen limbs or jaw

  • Gaping or drooling

  • Refusal to eat, consult a qualified reptile veterinarian promptly if any symptoms appear.

Final Note: The Green Iguana is a magnificent but high-maintenance reptile, best suited for dedicated keepers ready to provide a large, warm, and humid environment. Their beauty, intelligence, and strong personalities make them incredibly rewarding companions for those who can meet their demanding care needs.

With proper diet, UVB lighting, humidity, and space to roam, a Green Iguana can grow into a stunning, docile, and long-lived display animal that commands attention and respect.