🐍 General Info
The Ball Python (Python regius), also known as the Royal Python, is a medium-sized, non-venomous snake native to West and Central Africa, where it is usually found living in grasslands, savannas, and open forests. the name “Ball Python” comes from its habit of curling into a tight ball when frightened, with its head tucked safely in the center.
Ball pythons are known to have a docile temperament, manageable size, and beautiful color variations called morphs. Adults typically reach 3–5 feet in length, with females growing larger and heavier than males. They are one of the most popular pet snakes in the world due to their calm nature and ease of care when properly housed and fed.
Enclosure
Size:
Minimum 4 ft x 2 ft x 2 ft for an adult; larger is always better to allow exploration.
Juveniles can start in a 20–40 gallon enclosure (around 3 ft x 1.5 ft x 1.5 ft).
Material:
PVC, glass, or melamine enclosures with secure lids work well.
PVC is preferred for its ability to retain heat and humidity. Ensure adequate ventilation.
Substrate:
Use coconut husk, cypress mulch, or a soil/sand mix that helps maintain humidity.
Avoid cedar or pine shavings, as their oils can be toxic. (check with the specific product you are trying to use)
Depth: 2-3 inches.
Décor:
Provide two secure hides (one on the warm side, one on the cool side)
branches or sturdy décor for light climbing, and fake or live plants for security and enrichment.
Ball pythons are shy and appreciate multiple hiding options.
Maintenance: Spot clean daily as needed, with a full bedding change once a month.
Temperature & Lighting
Basking Spot: 88–92°F
Cool Side: 78–82°F
Ambient Temperature: Around 80–85°F
Night Temperature: Can safely drop to 75°F.
UVB Lighting:
Not strictly required but highly beneficial for natural behavior and overall health.
Use a T5 5–7% UVB tube if possible, position it to cover at least 2/3 of the enclosure.
Replace bulbs every 6–12 months per manufacturer’s instructions.
Day/Night Cycle: 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. Ball pythons are crepuscular, meaning they are most active at dawn and dusk.
Heating: Use heat tape, or ceramic heat emitter controlled by a thermostat. Never use heat rocks, as they can cause burns.
Humidity & Water
Humidity: 50–70%.
Increase to around 70% during shedding periods.
Maintain humidity by misting the enclosure and using a moisture-retaining substrate.
Water:
Provide a shallow water bowl large enough for your snake to soak in.
Keep water clean and fresh daily, as ball pythons often drink and soak in it.
Tip: Proper humidity helps with complete sheds—if pieces of shed remain, humidity is likely too low.
Diet
Type: Carnivorous — feeds exclusively on rodents and occasionally small birds in the wild.
Juveniles: Appropriately sized mice, offer one mouse/pinky rat every 7-10 days.
Adults: Rats are preferred, as they are more nutritionally dense. Offer one prey item every 7–14 days.
Feeding Method:
Feed frozen-thawed rodents are a great choice for ball pythons as most individuals will take to them fairly easy.
Avoid live feeding unless absolutely necessary, as live rodents can injure your snake.
Supplements: Not required for whole-prey diets. Ball pythons receive all needed nutrients from appropriately sized prey.
Water Intake: Ball pythons will drink periodically and may soak occasionally, especially during shedding or dry conditions.
Behavior & Handling
Temperament: Generally very docile and calm, making them an excellent beginner snake. Some individuals may be shy or defensive at first, especially juveniles, but they usually become tolerant of handling with time.
Handling: Start slowly—allow your snake to acclimate before handling. Support the body fully and avoid sudden movements. Never handle your snake for 48 hours after feeding, as this can cause regurgitation.
Enrichment: Rearrange enclosure décor occasionally, offer branches for exploration, and create secure, dark hides to help them feel safe. Ball pythons enjoy exploring when they feel secure in their environment.
Common Health Issues:
Respiratory infections: Caused by low temperatures or poor ventilation. Signs include wheezing, open-mouth breathing, or mucus.
Mouth rot (stomatitis): Inflammation or infection of the mouth, often from poor husbandry.
Parasites: Mites or internal worms; watch for excessive soaking or visible mites on scales.
Incomplete sheds: Usually from low humidity—maintain moisture and provide rough décor to help remove old skin.
Feeding issues: Ball pythons are known for fasting; ensure correct temps, privacy, and prey size to reduce refusals.
Final Note: Ball pythons are one of the most gentle and rewarding pet snakes available. Their calm disposition, manageable size, and captivating morphs make them ideal for both beginner and experienced keepers. With the proper setup, consistent temperatures, and regular but patient handling, your ball python can thrive and live a long, healthy life under your care.